New York City – 90 Hours of Indulgence
For me, New York represents the highest level of culinary diversity — a place where mediocrity is consistently filtered out and where the possibilities for eating well are nearly endless. Anyone who points out that there is also plenty to criticize is not wrong (or may simply have chosen the wrong places). Both are part of what defines the city.
On this latest trip in late March, I focused slightly more on less prominent names — though only slightly. Over the course of 90 hours, I moved from oysters in wine bars to fried chicken eaten with greasy fingers, and on to three-Michelin-star sushi. The density and range of experiences, at this level, would be difficult to replicate anywhere else.
What follows is a brief overview of the itinerary. As usual, detailed reports on each restaurant will follow.
Day 1: Check-in and Pop-Up
There is little time to waste. Thanks to an unexpectedly efficient arrival at JFK, there are just two hours between checking into my hotel and my first reservation — and only about 100 feet to cover.
Directly across the street, in the Studio space of the relatively new Clemente Bar above the three-Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park, a pop-up by the sushi master Eiji Ichimura is currently underway.
Seventeen hours after departure, now seated at the counter, the city asserts itself quickly. The atmosphere, the energy, the variety of concepts — all of it feels immediately familiar. As on previous visits, it takes only one evening to think: the trip has already justified itself.
Day 2: Four Horsemen and a King
As much as I appreciate New York’s fine dining, it is often the more casual places that leave a deeper impression. They reflect the city’s everyday dining culture — at a level that can make returning to Germany feel, at times, underwhelming.
One such place is The Four Horsemen in Brooklyn. Part wine bar, part restaurant, it is already lively on a Sunday morning. Even the focus on natural wines — not always to my preference — does little to diminish the experience.
From there, the next stop is Dante East Village, an established name I had previously only encountered in Beverly Hills. Oysters and a Negroni feel like an obvious choice. That it turns into four different Negronis is less so. They serve as a prelude to the evening’s main destination: César.
The restaurant, in my view underrated with two Michelin stars, once again operates at a very high level. Chef César Ramirez’s cooking is precise and product-driven. The challenge is less in evaluating it than in finding new ways to describe it.
A drink afterward seems appropriate. Sip & Guzzle, a well-regarded bar nearby, offers that opportunity — along with a burger that has also earned a strong reputation.
Day 3: From Korea to Kaiseki
Jet lag makes for an early start, even after a long night. Appetite returns reliably.
Coqodaq, within walking distance of the hotel, focuses on fried chicken and Champagne — an unlikely but effective combination. The experience is rich, intense, and unapologetically indulgent.
Later in the day, I begin the first of two dinners, taking advantage of the early opening hours common in New York. Penny, a seafood counter restaurant praised by The New York Times, delivers a series of small, well-executed dishes in a setting that feels both focused and relaxed.
The evening continues at odo East Village, a more casual extension of the two-Michelin-starred odo. Here, the structure of a traditional kaiseki menu has been adapted into an à la carte format, making it more accessible without losing its seasonal focus.
After several hours at the counter, the night ends at Superbueno, where music, energy, and well-made cocktails blur any sense of time.
Day 4: Three as a Theme
Three restaurants, one of them holding three Michelin stars — that sets the framework for the day.
Lunch begins at Rezdôra, a one-star Italian restaurant in the Flatiron District. Compared to the polish of Torrisi, it presents itself more modestly, with a focus on Emilia-Romagna. The basement dining room is simple; the snacks are good, though the pasta lacks the expected depth.
Buvette, in the West Village, offers a different kind of appeal. Jody Williams’s French-style “gastrothèque” is lively and atmospheric, particularly in warm weather. At the same time, the by-the-glass wine selection is unremarkable, and a vegetable dish centered on artichokes is underseasoned. Still, the setting remains compelling.
The evening is reserved for Sushi Sho, New York’s newest three-Michelin-starred sushi counter. Led by Keiji Nakazawa, it maintains a strict no-photos policy. Over the course of two hours, the experience is both technically and atmospherically focused — the kind that leaves a lasting impression without needing documentation.
A final stop at Clemente Bar, for one or two Martinis, brings the day to a close.
Day 5: One Last Meal
With a late afternoon flight, there is time for one more lunch. Thai Diner, in Nolita, is a place that tends to inspire consistent enthusiasm.
I work through several dishes from the extensive menu, the heat building to the point where eyes begin to water. It feels, in the moment, like a final meal before a pause — at least when it comes to New York.