Nobelhart & Schmutzig — Whetting the Appetite
It is somewhat peculiar that writing about one of Berlin’s most well-known restaurants almost inevitably sparks controversy. If you need proof, just wait for the reactions to this review 🍿.
That may be due to the outspoken voice of host Billy Wagner — his unapologetically direct, opinionated and often polarizing views on gastronomy, politics, art and wine. Or perhaps it is simply down to those who struggle with the success of someone who has no issue serving what might be nothing more than a (very good) carrot with a dab of sauce as part of a menu costing well over two hundred euros — and still earns a Michelin star and plenty of attention.
I have always followed all of this with a certain shrug and from a distance. Because this restaurant, with its “brutally local” cuisine — and one of the first in Germany to make counter dining socially acceptable — has consistently appealed to me. And that is despite the fact that much of it should not really be my thing: the “natural” wine list, curated with near-ostentatious seriousness and of overwhelming length; the sometimes almost esoteric descriptions of ingredients; and yes, I have left a meal here feeling hungry before. But as a friend recently put it rather aptly: better to grab a burger afterwards in a good mood than to leave a restaurant full but dissatisfied.
And the good mood — at least for me — is guaranteed here. The atmospheric lighting, the pleasantly informal counter, and the assured hospitality of Billy Wagner, who effortlessly balances the very different needs of guests night after night, all play a crucial role.
Whether someone is in the mood for another beer or asking about the maturity of a Burgundy from Domaine Bizot — the charismatic host always has a knowledgeable response at hand. And it is simply enjoyable to watch him at work. For me, Nobelhart & Schmutzig is one of the most atmospheric restaurants in Germany — and I am neither paid nor persuaded to say so. Quite the opposite: I come here entirely of my own accord and invariably leave with a higher bill than intended. Today will be no exception.
The meal, priced at €215 including water, begins with the placement of several small plates and bowls in front of me at the counter. In my glasses: a “Les Fontaines” Rosé Champagne from Domaine de Bichery, followed shortly by a pour of 2021 Savigny-lès-Beaune from Domaine Guilbert Gillet (€200).
Slices of pickled Jerusalem artichoke, resembling mushrooms, are served with fermented herbs — vinegary, firm, appetite-stimulating (7/10). Salsify marinated in wild garlic butter is crunchy, rich and served a few degrees warmer than the artichoke, which suits its more indulgent nature (7/10).
Next: turnips cured in whey, remarkably juicy and aromatic, with fresh herbal parsley — I could have eaten a dozen more (7.5/10). Alongside comes sourdough bread with nine-month-aged butter for those inclined to fill up early.
Then comes yellow beetroot with saffron mayonnaise and unripe elderberry. The beetroot is hot, juicy and firm — like a cross between potato and scallop. The saffron mayo delivers, beyond its satisfying richness, elegantly bitter notes and a very fine, restrained sweetness that carries the entire dish. Perhaps that sweetness comes solely from the beetroot — I cannot quite pinpoint it. The elderberry adds charming acidity without a trace of the bitterness I had expected. Harmonious, product-focused, excellent. (8/10)
The next course takes inspiration from a potato rösti. This version is somewhat lighter than what one might remember from home cooking, yet no less delicious. Quite the opposite: the nostalgic flavour — centred on the potato rather than roasted notes — is brought into the present with an apple cream and a touch of horseradish. This is essence distilled — no embellishment needed. (7/10)
A pierogi appears next, hidden beneath a foam of tomato water. The dumpling is filled with parts of the pig’s head — mask, snout and ear. What sounds rather brutal is in fact a textbook example of the nose-to-tail philosophy, executed here without compromise. The light tomato foam provides refreshing acidity and lends a sense of lightness to the — perhaps slightly too thick — pastry. Unfortunately, the savoury depth one hopes for from the filling is somewhat lacking. Still, a good dish. (6.9/10)
Another wine has already been opened and clearly needs more air: a 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru “Clos des Argillières” from Domaine Prieuré Roch (€490).
Then comes veal — two pink-roasted pieces from the neck — alongside a charred leek and a quince cream. The absence of a sauce may seem provocative at first, but the leek is cooked to such creamy perfection that, combined with a small touch of the tart quince cream, it complements every bite of the juicy meat beautifully. This is purist cooking, marked by pleasing clarity and excellent product quality. (7.5/10)
The first dessert is babka — a dense, glazed potato-yeast pastry. It is dipped into strikingly airy whipped cream — simple, and very good. (7/10)
Finally, a cream-based ice dessert with chestnut and blackcurrant. The intense fruit provides a clear contrast to the creamy base, yet the rather coarse, slightly mealy texture of the chestnut does not fully integrate for me. The result feels somewhat unbalanced. (6.5/10)
As a “provision for the road,” as the menu calls it, one is given a cream-filled choux pastry to take home. I save it for the next morning — for now, I am off to get a burger. In excellent spirits.